Welcome to Supai
DAY 1
We checked in for our hike around 8:30AM at the Grand Canyon Caverns Inn. If you’re staying at the inn, you can check in one day prior to your permit starting. Since we were staying elsewhere, we checked in the day off. The check in office is in the back of the inn, and there are so many large signs you cannot miss it. (It’s also a small inn).
There was no line to check in, but I have heard of that happening to others. The woman checking us in said that 72 people had yet to check in for the day, and that it is not uncommon for people to miss out on their permits. The permit costs $395 per person, not chop change to be skipping out on, but it happens.
She gave us our paper permit and our wristbands, and we were on our way. From the inn to Hilltop, it is just over an hour. Note that there are no gas stations on the way, so we filled the tank in Seligman.
At 10:30AM we started the long journey down to Supai. The trail starts at Hilltop- and it is just what it sounds like: the top of a hill. The only buildings here are a bathroom and a check-in office. We thought we would have to show our permit to check in, but a man getting packs ready for the mules said if we didn’t have any bags for him, to just head on down.
The beginning of the trail consisted of switchbacks down into the canyon floor. The terrain is uneven, with loose gravel, sand, and horse and mule poop to maneuver through. The animals have right of way and you will come across them at some point, whether they are coming towards you or coming from behind. There is a helicopter that goes from Hilltop to the village of Supai and back, and it was making frequent trips during our hike in- sometimes flying across the sky with a big load hanging from it.
Once you’re on the canyon floor, it’s quite flat the rest of the way. There is some shade provided by the canyon walls(even more so once you’re in the slot-ish canyon), and there are no water sources along the trail until you get to the village of Supai.
Once you enter the village you must wear a mask (even walking through it outside). I am guessing the Havasupai tribe was exempt from the Covid-19 vaccine. You are also not allowed to take photos in the village. Outside of the village, some of this still applies as you are not allowed to take photos of the Havasupai people or their property- i.e no photos of the pack mules while on your hike in/out. The village of Supai consists of homes, animal pastures, a church, post office, store, lodge, police station, and elementary school. When we passed by the elementary school, children were outside for recess. It is small and quaint, and reminded me of a village we passed through on the Salktantay Trek in Peru.
From the village to the campground it is two more miles. These will feel like two of the longest miles of your life! But just before Havasu Falls, there is a couple selling frybread and cold sodas. If you didn’t stop in town, you’ll want to stop here. After your stop for frybread (because we both know you will stop), you walk down a hill, with Havasu Falls to your right.
Havasu Falls is the third waterfall- followed by Mooney Falls at the end of the campground, and Beaver Falls five miles past Mooney Falls. The first two waterfalls Fifty Foot Falls and Navajo Falls are on your walk from the village to Havasu Falls. These two waterfalls are often overlooked but make a great activity during one of your full days at the campground.
Walk a liiitle further past the falls, and you’ll reach the entrance to the campground. The campground stretches along the river for approximately a mile, before reaching Mooney Falls. You’ll be keen to drop your bags at the first empty campsite, but keep on trekkin’! They say the best campsites are at the other end of the campsite, and I have to agree. Some campsites even sit at the top of Mooney Falls. We perused over the various empty campsites at this end of the campground, finally settling for one by the river and under a tree. There are plenty of campsites to go around, and pleasantly it does not feel like there are 300 other people camping with you.
DAY 2
A ways past the campground is the hike to Beaver Falls. It is approximately 5 miles one way- so you’re in for another long day on your feet. It is best to do this hike on Day 2 so that you can rest on Day 3 for the hike out on Day 4. The hike is much more technical than that of your hike in, beginning with the descent down to Mooney Falls.
It is best to descend into Mooney Falls when no one is coming up. But it is not so easy to tell from above, rather a better call for someone below to make before they choose to ascend. Chains drilled into the rock are your lifeline here, as the nature-made steps built into the cliff face are uneven and slippery from the waterfall’s spray. I recommend having at least one hand holding a chain at all times (there are chains flanking both sides of the trail).
There is a pile of gloves both at the top and bottom of the falls, left behind by others. The chains are cold and wet, and I am glad I had some of my own to use. I don’t think I’d want to use wet gloves that have probably never been fully dry in who knows how long. But, they are there if you need them.
Standing at the bottom of Mooney Falls is incredible and it probably reached #1 of waterfalls that I’ve seen- and I’ve seen a number of major waterfalls across the world. The falls drop a towering (feet) into a pool of Gatorade blue water. The red cliffs are covered in greenery, and the trail to reach the falls dotted with colorful jackets of hikers vying for the view I currently hold. There is a small sandbar (re: gravel) in the middle, in which you’ll wade through the water to reach. Here you can escape [most of] the spray from the falls and set up shop if you’re going for a swim. For the path to Beaver Falls, this hugs the canyon wall and you do not have to cross water to begin your hike- though you will come across multiple water crossings further on.
One trail leads to Beaver Falls. In a few places the trail briefly splits into multiple directions- but they’ll all bring you back to the main trail. It is not a hard trail but it is more technical than the hike in. There are a few water crossings, very minor scrambling (think big steps up a rocky section of trail), and a few ladders. Along the trail there are a few picnic tables, and there is a coveted picnic table overlooking Beaver Falls. When we arrived to the falls there were a few people swimming above the falls, but it wasn’t clear how they got there and we didn’t bother to ask. You can continue past Beaver Falls as well to reach the Colorado River confluence. This hike would be (miles) round trip from the campground, while the hike to Beaver Falls is 10 miles roundtrip and takes a solid chunk out of your day.
Before making the ascent back up to the campground, we took a dip in Mooney Falls. We were the only ones doing so, but we had seen a few people in the morning take their turn. The wind and spray from the falls added to the already chilly air, but when in Havasupai, right?
The ascent back up to the campground was much easier than in the morning. While descending you’re carefully thinking about where your foot placement is- but going up I found myself rapidly scrambling along. We got into warm kits and headed up the hill to the frybread tent, this time trying the Indian Taco option. This was frybread with beef, cheese, lettuce and tomato on it.
DAY 3
Our last full day in Havasupai. We had a slow and late start of around 8:30am. After breakfast we walked to the top of Mooney Falls. If you cross over the river while at the campground, you can get a view of the waterfall and hikers ascending/descending.
There are two waterfalls in between the village of Supai and Havasu Falls. The trails for these waterfalls are short, but barely marked but you may see other people popping out from them which will get you going in the right direction. Satisfied with now having seen all five waterfalls, we made our way to the village for lunch.
The cafe menu was much bigger than I anticipated- with offerings of curly fries, jalapeño poppers, cheeseburgers, lemonade, and more. I got an Indian Taco again while Simon got a bacon cheeseburger. There were other groups of hikers in the cafe but it was by no means crowded or overly busy, but the food took a while (maybe 30 minutes?).
There are outlets in the cafe, some people were charging their phones or camera batteries. There was also 3G cell service! I brought my phone out of airplane mode and got a taste of the internet for a few minutes.
We sat by a window that looked out at the post office, and some mules that were being packed up. One of the mules had an Amazon box as his pack. Jeff Bezos really is everywhere, huh. Outside of the window perpendicular to us was the airfield. You can get a helicopter ride out, and it seems like a popular option. But, it is $100 and is on a first come first serve basis. Natives also get to cut the line and fly out before any waiting hikers.
Bellies full, we walked back to the campground but not before taking a look at the village bulletin. There were flyers up for the local government election, AA meetings, suicide prevention/awareness, and even a notice from the Tribal Council over a custody battle.
While not as strenuous or as long as a walk as the days before, sore legs made todays walk to and back from the village feel like forever. We passed by Havasu Falls again, musing over whether we should take a dip. Upon returning to our campsite we decided that we should- because who knows if we’ll ever be here again? We took a quick dip in Havasu Falls and the lack of wind and spray that Mooney Falls presents, made this swim more bearable. The water also felt warmer than the air, and a woman, likely bewildered by us swimming, had to come touch the water herself to find out.
It’s still light out when we get back to our campsite around 5:00PM, but the sun quickly sets. We make the last of our freeze dried camp meals and organize what we can in preparation for the next day. We’re hoping to be up and out of here early the next morning for our 10 mile hike back to Hilltop.
DAY 4
Our alarm was set for 5:15AM but we snoozed until 6:00AM. It was still dark out when we got up, but surprisingly not that cold. It had sprinkled overnight so the rainfly was a little wet. But the entire tent is going to need be aired out and wiped down from all the dust anyways when we get home.
We didn’t make breakfast and headed out of camp at 7:23AM. It was light by now and we took one last look at Havasu Falls before we left. Hikers were already enjoying a warm breakfast in the cafe when we passed by. It would have been nice to stop there but we’ve got places to be! Namely, Las Vegas.
We powered through the village and the hike through the slot canyon felt never ending. We got passed by three different groups of mules, one with a pack of dogs from the village as well. Finally we exited the slot canyon and we’re back in the valley floor. It was sunny and a short ways on the ascent to Hilltop, I took off my fleece. A total game changer of a decision that made the rest of the hike much easier. There is a flag at Hilltop that you can see from below. It kind of taunts you as you can see the end... but there is still over a mile of incline till you’re there.
We finished the hike chatting with another couple- they had started two hours before us. To Simon’s jealousy, they had hiked to the Colorado confluence on Monday, something I was not up for nor cared to do. They said that hike was 18 miles roundtrip. Like us, they did it on Day 2 so that Day 3 would be a rest day before the hike out.
The feeling of reaching your car after a hike is a feeling like non other and seeing the car was such a relief! Packs off, just sitting in the car, finally done hiking 11 miles (campground + out) through the desert.
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