A Weekend Escape to Banff
I recently went to Banff National Park for a long weekend (and as a surprise for my best friend’s engagement). Being the first weekend in May, temperatures were still a bit chilly and there was a little bit of snow left in some parts, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have fun! It’s a beautiful mountain town with lots to do. Here’s a weekend itinerary to see the sights and eat the eats while you’re there:
Where To Stay
Many, but not all, of the hotels in Banff are at the beginning of Banff Ave as you enter from the Trans Canada highway coming from Alberta. If you stay in one of these hotels, you’ll have the easiest access to Banff’s downtown, nightlife, and public transportation. But, the bus system seems to be robust and many of the other lodging accommodations off of the main drag are on the bus routes or within walking distance to downtown.
We stayed at the Moose Hotel and Suites, which is centrally located on Banff Ave and a stones throw to the hubbub of downtown. It has all the amenities you need for a comfortable stay, is home to Pacini (an Italian restaurant) and the Meadow Spa + Pools, two rooftop pools, a fitness center, free garage parking, and is pet friendly. If a hotel room isn’t your vibe but you want the amenities of a hotel, you can book your stay in the Corner House- a literal house that has been reconstructed and restored in the courtyard of the hotel.
Where To Eat
Located upstairs in the Sundance Mall along Banff Ave, Ramen Arashi is one of the most sought out places to dine in town. It’s no frills and it’s super delicious. First come first serve, if there is a wait you’ll be called in by chronological order and party size. I recommend the Tonkotsu Ramen and the Black Tantan Men.
If you’re looking for a quick bite, Arashi To Go has some premade asian bites and snacks. You can also get some Asian cooking ingredients here as well. It is essentially a food stall, so there is no seating here!
This restaurant is a Korean street food chain. Their focus is Hankki bowls and hot dogs. If you haven’t had a Korean hot dog, you’re missing out. They’re cooked in a crispy, sweet batter and the sauces always it the spot.
Located outside of downtown in the Juniper Hotel, the Juniper Bistro is a subtly romantic dining spot serving up selective but approachable farm-to-table fare. The campfire brie is a must-get for some ooey-gooey, melt-in-your-mouth cheese, and if you can score a table by the window, the views are unmatched.
Located inside of the Banff Aspen Lodge, Whitebark Cafe is a great spot to grab a morning bite or cup o’ Joe before you head off on your adventures. They offer gluten free and vegan options each day, but I kept going back for the bacon + egg cup with mango chutney.
This restaurant screams farm-to-table and it doesn’t disappoint. With a menu large enough that there is something for everyone and wood-fired cooking add another dimension to the dishes, you’ll leave wanting more.
What To Do
If you don’t visit Lake Louise, did you even go to Banff? Adjacent to the looming Fairmont Lake Louise Chateau, Lake Louise is a jaw dropping sight. In the winter you can walk on the ice, and in the summer the vibrant turquoise water welcomes you to paddle around the lake. While you’re there, hike up the Lake Agnes Trail to reach Lake Agnes and the teahouse. It’s a moderate hike that has some incline but nothing too gnarly. The round trip will take a few hours so you’ll have plenty of time left in the day. You’ll also pass by Mirror Lake and a waterfall on your way up to the lake and teahouse! You don’t need hiking boots, but I would recommend sneakers at minimum. If you hike this June through October, the teahouse will be open and you can grab a snack there while enjoying the view of the lake.
Moraine Lake
Open for a short five months out of the year, Moraine Lake was not open when I was there, but is a must do for visitors arriving June through October. Like Lake Louise, it’s another glorious sight to behold. You can paddle on the lake as well as hike around it. And while you’re able to take a personal vehicle to Lake Louise, you’ll have to take a shuttle, public transit, or go with a tour to reach Moraine Lake.
Ok, I’m going to be really honest with you here. If you make it there- great. If you don’t, don’t sweat it- it’s a single pool with hot-tub temperature water. It’s certainly nice to relax in, but it’s not a place where your kids are going to be able to splash around in, and since it is one pool it could get crowded. It isn’t an expensive activity though, so I certainly didn’t feel like I wasted money on it.
Tickets to the Banff Gondola aren’t cheap, but if you’re on the fence, do it and thank me later. The gondola goes up Sulphur Mountain (which you can hike up if you so choose), and provides you with 360° views of the Canadian Rockies that surround Banff. The mountaintop discovery center is home to educational materials, a restaurant, cafe, and gift shop. The boardwalk takes you to the Cosmic Ray Station and Sanson’s Peak, and you can learn about the park along the way with informational signs. There is no bad view when you’re up there, and you can spend as much time up top as you’d like!
Shop Downtown
If you’re coming from the US, the exchange rate is in your favor (May 2023). What I’m saying is, don’t sleep on that. There are lots of touristy shops, but the big winner is Lululemon (if you’re into them). Their overpriced pricing is the same in the US as it is Canada- i.e. a top is labeled as $70 both in USD and CAD. So while the price tag says $70, you’re actually only paying $52 USD :)
Johnston Canyon, Lower + Upper Falls
Johnston Canyon is a top Banff attraction because of its beauty and easiness. Much of the hike is along catwalks bolted into the canyon walls, with the creek flowing swiftly beneath you. First you’ll approach the Lower Falls, where you can pass through a small cavern whereupon emerging you’re greeted with a roaring waterfall and its spray. You’ll go back to the main path and continue along the catwalks and through a pine forest until you reach the Upper Falls, which you can view from a deck. From the parking lot to the Upper Falls and back, it is ~3 miles. If you choose to go past the Upper Falls, you can eventually reach colorful pools of water called the Ink Pots (this hike will be a 7 mile hike round trip).